Solar eclipse maestro liveview how to#Here's how to test this feature before the eclipse:ĭisable GPS (Settings->GPS Module) so you can enter manual coordinatesįind the coordinates on Google Maps of where you plan to be, and enter them in Settings->Set GPS Latitude/LongitudeĬhange the date to in Settings->Set UTC Date I plan to run two cameras, one with a telephoto tracking the sun with a solar filter, and another wide-angle landscape that switches to auto-ramping after the eclipse and continues until night. With the landscape you should be able to do alright without a solar filter but you won't get the detail of what's happening with the sun. Note that if you're using a telephoto lens the range of light is much more extreme that if you're doing a landscape. Once the eclipse is over, you can set it to auto ramp or just keep going at a fixed exposure. Set this too the same as the first exposure and make sure the solar filter is back on. Now we start doing everything in reverse - same as before this is a short period of about 15 seconds were you will want to be taking the images in rapid succession, then put the solar filter back on as the sun emerges again. You could do a couple long HDR sets of 11 exposures 1 stop apart, or several sets of 3 exposures 2 stops apart. Totality is very short - only around 2 minutes and 20 seconds depending on where you are. Having removed the filter during the Baily's Beads period right before this, the best setting here is to do HDR to capture the corona. This is where you need to be watching and remove the filter at this point. I recommend a short interval here of about 2 seconds, and no solar filter. This is a very short period of about 15 seconds where the final bits of the sun are disappearing behind the moon. I recommend keeping the exposure the same as pre-eclipse and maintain an interval of around 10 seconds. A 10 second interval or even more is probably good here (not much is happening unless there are clouds). You'll be able to setup and test this exposure in the camera before starting the program. I recommend a preset fixed exposure with a solar filter on the lens (if you're using a telephoto lens). This is the time leading up to the first contact. The following circumstances are supported in the eclipse mode: He also makes the incredibly extensive and powerful Eclipse Maestro software as well as an exposure calculator you'll want to refer to when planning the presets: Īnd be sure to check out Syrp's guide here: Jubier's eclipse circumstances calculator for planning, used with permission graciously provided by Xavier. This has the advantage of being determinate and you can preview the exact plan beforehand. The eclipse program won't do auto ramping during the eclipse, but rather just run pre-planned sequences at the right times as the eclipse events (circumstances) take place. Solar eclipse maestro liveview code#So over the last few months I've been doing a bit of research and finally put together a special program specifically for the eclipse (actually a lot of the underlying code will be re-used for scheduled programming and long-term features in the near future). However, during the eclipse, the light conditions during totality will change very rapidly making the ramping algorithm non-ideal if you're in the path of totality (though it would be fine for just a partial eclipse). The Timelapse+ VIEW Intervalometer is a powerful auto-ramping intervalometer, and the auto ramping algorithm is carefully designed to not respond to rapid changes, such as from car headlights and such. Note: this document is a work-in-progress currently based on VIEW firmware version v1.8-beta5, and will be updated as testing continues and more resources are added.
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